On the Russian Front

From Viljandi, we drove east towards Lake Peipsi, a very large lake on the border between Estonia and Russia. We stopped in Kolkja, located on "the Onion Road" and happened upon the Old Believers' Museum. We were the only visitors on a Sunday morning and our young guide provided a wonderful tour in English. Their website (Old Believers Museum website) states that you should call well in advance to arrange an English tour. We were just lucky!

We learned that the Old Believers are Russians whose ancestors left their country when the Russian Orthodox Church started practicing new ways about 300 years ago. The Old Believers wanted to keep practicing their religion as they always had, in the old way. As far as the onions, they are a traditional crop for these people and we saw people out tending their fields. Fish and onions are a staple of their diet but they also sell the onions in larger nearby towns.

I had gotten recommendations from Signe, an Estonian friend, for places to visit as we traveled through Eastern Estonia. We made many stops along the way as we traveled north, visiting an old cemetery in Kallaste for a beautiful view out over Lake Peipsi, a handicraft shop in Avinurme that featured lovely and functional wooden items, and an Orthodox convent in Kuremäe. The convent and grounds were enchanting and Kuremäe was definitely a highlight.

Kallaste cemetery

Kuremäe Convent and Grounds

Just a river separates Russia from the northern Estonian city of Narva, our final overnight stop before arriving in Tallinn. We saw cars and trucks waiting in line to be checked at the border and cross over the bridge into Russia. Signe had told me that "even for us Estonians, it's like a different world. Exotic!" She was right. There were menus in Estonian and Russian, many other signs in Russian, and many voices speaking Russian. But we were still in Estonia!

Here's looking at you, Russia

Thank You and Farewell, Tallinn . . . Until Next Time

Our trip finished in Tallinn where we saw the sights, bought some yarn and books, and met with friends. Although I had shopped for yarn a little along the way, I knew that I also had a package waiting for me in Tallinn. I had been waiting patiently for the new Estonian Knitting book by Anu Pink, Siiri Reimann, and Kristi Jõeste to be published by Saara Publishing in English. As it turned out, ordering information for this book became available while I was traveling. Saara Publishing also sells HEA wool yarns in a variety of weights that are good for traditional mitten knitting and shawl knitting. I knew I wanted to try some of these yarns so I put together an order for the book and some yarns and had them shipped to an Estonian friend rather than having the heavy package shipped to the US. The cost of shipping to the US is very expensive. As long as my luggage didn't get too heavy, this was a good solution. Fortunately, I stayed below luggage weight limits for my trip home! Thank you, Signe, for delivering my package to me in Tallinn!

Signe's delivery service

We visited the Estonian Handicraft House at Pikk 22 to view a special Latvian textile exhibit, check out the shop, and visit Riina Tomberg's Workshop in the lower level. I had no idea that Riina would actually be onsite that day, so I was pleasantly surprised to find her in the shop and happy to have a little reunion with her. Riina is an author and teacher of Estonian knitting and handicraft. Her knitwear is beautiful and I own one cardigan of hers that I bought on my first trip to Estonia. While we were chatting, my husband was lamenting that fact that I have not knit a sweater for him in a long time (you might say it's a case of "the shoemaker's children always go barefoot" syndrome). Riina thought that he was lucky to have as many handknit sweaters as he does, so she did not sympathize with him. Fortunately, Chris found a beautiful Riina Tomberg Design sweater that fit him perfectly, so he is now happy with his newest pullover and I am free to knit mittens, shawls, or sweaters as I choose, rather than "on demand." Thank you, Riina, for the wonderful selection of sweaters that you have in your shop!

Riina Tomberg in her Workshop

We planned a visit with Mari, one of my Estonian Craft Camp instructors. Although she teaches near Viljandi, we met near her home in Tallinn and took a walk that included Kadriorg Park and the Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak). We stopped at the statue of Estonian composer, Gustav Ernesaks, for some photos. Thank you, Mari, for teaching me to make plaited ribbons, Estonian-style!

A Mari, Mary, and Gustav composition

On our last full day in Tallinn, we met Monika for lunch at Kaerajaan restaurant on the Town Hall Square. Monika made sure that we checked out one of the unique features of architecture in this restaurant. All I'm going to say is that you should go to the second floor to use the toilet. During lunch, I mentioned that I was looking for Käsitöösalong Hiiupits, a particular shop featuring handicrafts based on Hiiumaa island traditions. Coincidentally, Monika's friend owns the shop, so we stopped together for a look after lunch. Thank you, Monika, for your knowledge of all places Estonian!

Monika

To round out the trip, we visited the Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which has been important in Estonian history as the terminus of the Baltic Way. The Baltic Way was an event that took place in 1989, with approximately 2 million people joining together hand-in-hand from Vilnius through Riga to Tallinn to show their solidarity in the pursuit of independence. I had begun this trip in Lithuania and had visited the other terminus of the Baltic Way, Gediminas' Tower in Vilnius (see my prior blog post about the Baltic Way here) so it was fitting that we should end our trip here.

Trees, Bays, and Bogs

Our drive from Narva in northeast Estonia to Tallinn included a stop in the town of Rakvere. I'd seen Rakvere in the news as they are becoming well known for their distinctive Christmas tree displays, claiming a spot on Huffington Post's list of "The Most Over-The-Top Christmas Trees of 2014." You can see all 14 Christmas trees from 2014 here including Rakvere's tree made of recycled wood that stood over 33 feet (10 meters) high. In 2015, a tree made of recycled windows and standing 12 meters high (39 feet) was erected in Rakvere's town square. I read about the 2015 tree on Estonian World's blog here. Well, it wasn't December, but we checked out this little town with a big town square, and imagined what it would be like at Christmastime.

Next stop? We couldn't miss a stop in one of Estonia's National Parks. Lahemaa National Park is on the north coast and we took a nice hike near Altja, a formerly thriving fishing village. The hike included a walk along the beach, over a small suspension bridge, and views of some large erratic boulders, old wooden buildings along the shoreline, and some interesting wooden fences. We may have gotten just a little lost, but we did eventually found our way back to the car.

Our second hike of the day was a bog walk near Kolga. Viru Bog is known as the most accessible bog in Estonia. It is located about an hour from Tallinn. At the beginning, the bog's boardwalk is actually wheelchair accessible. This wider boardwalk will take you to a lookout tower but from there, the boardwalk narrows down considerably.

An Artist in the Making

After Riga, it was time to leave the city for the countryside. My husband, Chris, and I rented a car so that we could travel at our leisure, making our way slowly from Riga to Tallinn. We headed first to Gauja National Park in Northeast Latvia. This area is known as the Switzerland of Latvia, but the landscape is more like rolling hills than mountains. In a land where the highest elevation is Gaizinkalns at 312 meters (1,024 feet) above sea level, everything is relative. Switzerland or not, this is a beautiful area for sightseeing and hiking. The town of Sigulda is the gateway to Gauja National Park and we stopped briefly to explore. From Sigulda, there's a view across the Gauja river valley to Turaida Castle.

Our hike in the park included a stop at Gutman's Cave, a grotto containing carved inscriptions (also known as graffiti) from as early as 1668. Unfortunately, newer carvings have eradicated some of the earlier carvings. Now, it is no longer permitted to write on the cave walls.

We stayed at a lovely country hotel that I found on Trip Advisor - Kārlamuiža. The quiet country setting was relaxing and, in the fading evening light, we were able to watch storks in a nest just outside the window. The nearby town of Cēsis was our destination for dinner and we found an interesting restaurant in a converted fire house - Izsalkušais Jānis. Lettering on the glass doors of the restaurant read "rustic blend, hemp, forestfood, dill, goosebumps, no chef, seasons, nordic," as well as other words in Latvian. We had a delicious meal there.

On our way north to Viljandi in Estonia, we traveled through the border towns of Valka, Latvia and Valga, Estonia. Viljandi is a favorite stop for me especially because I'm able to visit friends that I've made on previous trips. This town houses the University of Tartu's Culture Academy and because of this, a very good selection of handknitted mittens and socks can be found at Viljandi Käsitöökoda, a local yarn shop at Lossi 14. I picked up a great pair of mittens that was knit at 13 stitches to the inch and I was told by the shop owner that the traditional design of these mittens is from the nearby town of Pilistvere.

One evening we were invited to dinner at a friend's new home in an old schoolhouse outside of Viljandi. On our way to dinner, we stopped at our hostess's pottery studio, Mulgi Savikoda, where classes are taught and distinctive pottery is sold.

I found that clay is not as forgiving as knitting. With one-on-one instruction from Külli, our hostess, I started throwing a pot on a wheel. It didn't take me too long to put my thumb through the side of my pot and "splat" it went! Then Chris sat down at the wheel and in spite of his Adrian Monk tendencies (see TV show starring Tony Shalhoub) and his aversion to having dirty hands, he got right into the wet clay and produced his first piece of pottery. An artist is born!

Then it was on to the old schoolhouse that's being converted into a home, a walk in the neighborhood, a fabulous dinner, and interesting conversation. Special thanks to Rauno and Getter who befriended me on my trip in 2013 and have since introduced me to their families (see prior blog posts here and here).